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2019-08-27 9:49 pm
You're gonna notice that printing really large really flat things on the glass ARE gonna be hard to remove. It's not exactly a vacuum between the print and the glass, but, it seems to act like one
i didnt re-level my bed and it it did move just a hair
Yea, I think I said that
Was that actually printed at 180C ? Or is that just a block to print ?
What was your infill set at ? For those test blocks I try to use 0% infill so I can test to see how the roof prints without any support
I'll give you some GOOD news tho... It looks like your belts are (currently) adjusted properly
That warping on the bottom COULD be due to the bed not being level, or it could also be a temp problem. Level the bed and try it again. Warping on the bottom is NOT a noob issue, it's a typical problem with numerous causes
Pakabol reacted
Topic starter
2019-08-27 9:52 pm
Might try soap and water first.
ive been using IPA after every print the glue come off really easy and make it squeaky clean to the point where my 6 dogs all freak out
Topic starter
2019-08-27 9:56 pm
Was that actually printed at 180C ? Or is that just a block to print ?
just the block i ran one at 200/60 and ive got another test going at 185/60 runn a few temps to see what the difference is 1st hand
What was your infill set at ? For those test blocks I try to use 0% infill so I can test to see how the roof prints without any support
im at 10% infill ill try the next at 0%
2019-08-27 9:59 pm
And I think I have figured out that CURA is not "built-in." I'll just use me PC and transfer using OctoPrint.
It's not a big thing. Personally, I've only used the built-in version a handful of times, just because it was cool that I could do it on my phone
latest on the OctoPrint website
Man, are you gonna love all the add-ons ! There's a really useful one that actually allows you to turn the whole printer unit on and off, as well as octoprint anywhere for your phone. I've got a LED light string around the frame of my printer that I use Octoprint to turn on and off automatically while it's printing, and manually if I need to work on it or change the filament or something
Then, of course, you can write your own add-ons, which is also very cool
Oh, and you're gonna wanna get a camera
Topic starter
2019-08-27 10:08 pm
this is the diffence from adjusting the bed
and i guess i was ahead of you this one it 0% infill
each print is getting better 🙂 this is so much fun
2019-08-27 10:32 pm
Camera ordered from Amazon. It arrives on Thursday. Going for a Logitech USB HD camera to start with. Then I can use it on my desktop for Skype if I decide to change to a RasPi camera.
SteveG
2019-08-27 10:51 pm
The top to the RasPi 4 Case just finished. The large hole is for a fan as the RasPi 4 get very hot when doing any number crunching.
One more picture when I get the Pi in it then I'm going to disappear in a ball of PLA spaghetti!
SteveG
Duce robot reacted
2019-08-28 12:18 am
That's very nice 🙂
I usually use brim (which is what you used). I don't see much point in skirt, and I've never been able to get raft to separate properly from the print, so I don't use it
Don't expect all your prints to complete a roof successfully. The only reason it works on those test boxes is because the air gap is so short. If the box were much bigger, you'd see the roof droop. That's when you start playing with infill and supports
Also don't assume that whatever temp you printed that box at is the right temp. You will see different results when you change the temp. The bed temp is usually about 60C for me. I don't usually change it unless I'm printing something that requires it. Right now I'm printing some carbon fiber on one printer, and PETG on the other. Both require higher temps, but PLA is usually 60C
After you get the temp figured out, you could start playing with speed, and see what that does to your prints.
You've also got layer height to play with, but you should only make one change at a time. I'd say keep playing with the temp first
A good print doesn't mean it can't be better 😉
2019-08-28 12:23 am
That looks real nice too !
Something you should think about tho when you're printing things with screw sockets in them is infill. If the infill isn't high enough those screw sockets will break right off when you try to screw in a screw
I also notice that you didn't use any brim. A large flat print like that one probably doesn't need it cuz it's got lots of flat space to adhere to the bed, but, with the boxes that @Pakabol is printing, those things are so small you pretty much need to have a brim to give the filament something to stick to
Oh, and the camera. Did you check the list of supported cameras before you ordered it ?
I know that octo likes Logitech, but, I don't know if it works with all of them
Topic starter
2019-08-28 12:29 am
ive noticed that having a brim also helps with freeing it from the bed it gives you a way to get under the PLA a bit it is brittle but only had the brim break off once so far
2019-08-28 12:29 am
Those screw sockets actually have screws that go all the way through and have a washer and a nut on the other end.
SteveG
2019-08-28 12:50 am
having a brim also helps with freeing it from the bed it gives you a way to get under the PLA a bit
YES ! After helping the stuff stick to the bed, then it helps you remove it from the bed
Brim is good 🙂
Those screw sockets actually have screws that go all the way through and have a washer and a nut on the other end.
Wow. That design was well thought out. I assume it has no sides that would restrict airflow ?
2019-08-28 9:21 pm
@codecage - that looks a really nice print so I guess you have your printer settings nicely dialled in. My first prints were in PLA but I then found the PTEG was a nicer filament for printing boxes and cases as its more flexible whilst being stronger. I suggest it's worth giving it a trial in your early tests to see what you think. Its ended up as my preferred choice anyway.
2019-08-28 9:41 pm
PETG not PTEG ? - can I blame a spelling checker ?
2019-08-28 9:45 pm
I bought a spool of PETG but haven't tried it yet, but it's on the horizon. What are the main difference I'll have to take into consideration? Is temp the main difference? And is there an average time frame on having to replace the print nozzle? And what indications do you get that it's time to change the nozzle?
SteveG