From the feedback on the Amazon page you linked to, it doesn't sound like those have actual ball bearings inside them.
Do they have actual ball bearings inside them ?
They are plastic. iGlide bearing
Pat
The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that heralds new discoveries, is not “Eureka!” (I found it!) but “That's funny …”
Author: Isaac Asimov
I've never used store-bought plastic bearings. I printed them once. I only used them until the ones with actual little rolly metal balls inside them showed up in the mail
The same warning goes for the plastic ones tho... Don't spray lubricant right on or in them, just spray down a rag and wipe down the rails
Well they say they're self lubricating in the link I posted. I'm guessing something similar to sintered bronze.
Pat
The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that heralds new discoveries, is not “Eureka!” (I found it!) but “That's funny …”
Author: Isaac Asimov
just an little up date i got my bushings today and got the print back up and running. also i changed out the filament to purple same maker just a different color. i now see how they are totally different my old setting wouldnt work took awhile to get it dialed in. one wouldn't think it could make that much of a difference but dang
also got the camera set up with octoprint i really love not have o keep running up and down the stairs and @codecage that lag is pretty huge 5 secs or so but as you said no big deal if your not sitting there
i now see how they are totally different my old setting wouldnt work
Yep, a different color could require different settings. In fact, even the same color from a different batch could do that. It's easier to understand with the colors cuz you're adding different dyes to the filament. Different dyes different chemicals. And batches too in the same color from the same manufacturer. Time spent on the shelf, amount of water it's absorbed from the air, etc.
As to the lag, I notice lag occasionally, but, not all the time. It usually depends on what else the computer is doing, and what my network is doing. Most of the time, when I'm sitting right there and I'm loading a filament, if I hit the extrude button I see it come out right away on the camera as I hear the motor spin. But then sometimes, if I'm upstairs, and my computer is on another tab, if I go back to the printer tab, I'll see it pause on the camera for a few seconds, then watch it speed up and catch up to real time. But I never see a CONSTANT lag
Just getting caught up.... again. On your 3D printers, do you know if they came with hi-temp filament tubes? I ask because before I bought my 3D printer I read a lot of comments that ones that ship without the hi-temp tubes would often melt towards the hot end and cause all sorts of extrusion issues while printing. I think the hi temp ones are called Capricorn tubes... Anyway, just another thing to look at.
Can I 3D print a new pig head for the zombie brains? Perhaps make it work with the Google voice kit?
On your 3D printers, do you know if they came with hi-temp filament tubes?
no they did not i already burnt up my tip and shaft. had to ordered 6 more of them. and that was at a print temp of 200C might go back to 190C with this new filament
Capricorn tubes are the PTFE tubing that is used by Bowden style print heads. Most of the hotend throats that I buy have PTFE tubes inside them, but they aren't called capricorn, they're just throats with PTFE tubes inside them
PTFE melts at a higher temp than PLA, but, I wouldn't call them heat resistant, especially when you consider the fact that you can print with PTFE filament. You can still melt the PTFE tubes inside the throat and clog your nozzle
As far as printing with zombie brains, I'm not familiar with that type of filament
ive got 6 dogs and im pretty sure at least one of them could benefit from a 3d printed zombie pig brain
I have my A8 Plus up and running well. I found the build quite simple but agree that I need to replace the bearings. I'm busy designing updates for it too.
Can anyone explain how to change the bearings? I assume that they need to be pressed out and the new ones pressed in? Can anyone confirm that?
I also have a Flashforge Creator Pro and replaced the bearings in that with iGUS and also some of the rods with carbon fibre ones and it has quietened it significantly.
Can anyone explain how to change the bearings? I assume that they need to be pressed out and the new ones pressed in
i set the casing on top on my vice so the bearing could passed through the opening of the vice jaws and took a large flat blade screwdriver and hit it with a hammer ( the flat blade driver was larger then the inside of the bearing) and they popped out nice and easy. just a little tap did the trick but the new bearings popped in quite easy with just my fingers