Help. info about Adjustable Step-Down Voltage Meter Power Supply Module: "WZ5012L"

@man77 Your google drive links fail on security. It sounds like you want to convert an ATX PS, if so see Bill's video at

I would not recommend the CNC whatever, it is a special purpose supply, just get a standard ATX PS if you want a switching supply, but if you want a linear supply, then check out Bills video on that at

. I am building the same one but mine will have 4 output posts and meters rather than a selector switch. 3.3, 5, 12, and adjustable 2 to 20

Hi @man77 Manuel,

  Welcome to the forum!

   Unfortunately, I cannot access any of your Google Drive references ... sorry I haven't used Google Drive for much, but I assume you need to set a switch somewhere to allow everyone to read the files ... but be careful to ensure you are only enabling the files you wish to share!

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Also, apologies, I haven't any experience of the WZ5012L, but I did a quick Google to see what I could find out.

It appears to be a buck regulator circuit, with control and display. Buck regulators are a form of switch mode voltage converter, whose output voltage is ALWAYS LESS than the input voltage.

As a 'reference' to support this, I found a manual at

http://myosuploads3.banggood.com/products/20200929/2020092903481550V12A-WZ5012L.pdf

which includes the statement:

7.3. This module is a step-down module, the input
voltage should be higher than the output voltage,
and a certain margin should be reserved. For full
load output, the input voltage should be 55v.

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However, you seem to be suggesting the use of an ATX power supply, which has 3 main output voltages of +3.3 V, +5V and +12V.

I couldn't see a full description/specification of the WZ5012L.

But from my general knowledge of buck converters, when using the max ATX voltage of +12v as an input to the WZ5012L I would expect the maximum output voltage from the WZ5012L to be less than 10V, and it is possible that the unit would not work at all with such a low voltage input.

Hence, I fear this will not meet your expectations.

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Could I respectfully suggest you post the actual requirements (voltage and current) that you need as a final output range, and possibly some explanation as to why you have chosen those values, asking for suggestions as to the recommended approach to achieve them?

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Sorry, my reply is rather negative, but hopefully you will receive some good suggestions.

Best wishes, Dave

@davee Good morning. Sorry, I didn't have the Google Drive "anyone with the link" feature enabled for the files I shared. They are now viewable. In the meantime I see the video files that Ron posted (Bill's videos on YouTube) and I follow DaveE's explanation. Dear all, thank you

@zander Good morning. Sorry, I didn't have the Google Drive "anyone with the link" feature enabled for the files I shared. They are now viewable. In the meantime I see the video files that Ron posted (Bill's videos on YouTube) and I follow DaveE's explanation. Dear all, thank you

@man77 Forget that WZ whatever, it is a special device of no use to you for this project other than maybe the meter but I would use the meter Bill uses in his ATX conversion.

Either of those two supplies are good.

I think you said you wanted a Linear, if so you do NOT want those supplies. 

See the two videos (and articles for in-depth coverage) I posted for details.

@zander Purtroppo ho già acquistato il "WZ5012L", quindi non posso usarlo con un alimentatore ATX? Ho fatto un acquisto sbagliato? 😥 . Non posso usarlo per creare un alimentatore switching? Per quanto riguarda un alimentatore lineare, posso acquistarlo anche in un secondo momento... Per il momento spero di non aver sprecato inutilmente i miei soldi per il WZ5012L. Grazie mille per la risposta, Ron 🙂 👍

Should I try contacting the retailer to return the item and get a refund?

@man77 That WZ gizmo is a DC to DC converter. The ATX power supplies are AC to DC converters giving you 3.3VDC, 5VDC, and 12VDC. If you also want an adjustable output, then that WZ gizmo MIGHT help. But first, lets understand the specs and do some simple math. First the specs.

Since it's input is 6-55V you will need to dedicate your ATX 12V to that job but maybe on a switch so you can use either the 12VDC OR the variable.

The 500W PSU advertises 23A at 12VDC so there is 276W of power (not counting any losses) to feed the WZ that advertises 50V at 12A or 600W. Can you see how that is a problem? Of course you don;t have to operate the WZ at maximums, but you have not told us what you want for variable voltage and current.

As long as your variable is less than 48V at 5A (I am guessing you are doing boat projects) or 24V at 10A you will be ok as long as there is no other demands on the ATX PSU.

It's just a matter of math, build a spreadsheet with average and worst-case values of all your outputs and see if you can drive that with your ATX PSU.

Given the limited information you have given us this is the best I can come up with.  One thing for sure, that setup will produce a lot of electrical noise.

@man77 EDIT: No, you can use it. I have a similar unit in one of my Power Supplies.

@man77 AH, Now I see. I have the more compact unit, but it is pretty much the same as yours. I will drop links to both styles so you can understand.

Mine is https://bityl.co/NMAo

and yours is https://bityl.co/NMAq

I think I even have the Bluetooth module somewhere but have never used it.

Just remember you will be sharing the ATX 12VDC 23A with your fixed 12VDC output AND your variable (0 to 50VDC) output.

Good luck.

@zander Ok ok, I only need it to power and test notebooks, smartphones, household appliances (logic boards), in the near future. For me, 30 volts max and 5 or max 10 amps would be enough. I would need it to see if there are short circuits (therefore to see the absorption of the broken logic boards,
short circuits. So I think this WZ5012L is fine. Then I think I understand your detailed and very kind explanation Ron. I have to do the grounding (connecting the WZ to something metal), right? And for using the benchtop power supply, do you think the VulTech GS-600R 600W or iTek ATX-500W ATX power supply is better? Thank you so much for the replies. Sorry if I seem a little confused, but I'm a beginner...

@zander Got it 🙂 , then I will use the iTek ATX-500W ATX for the project, perfect

Hi @man77,

   PLEASE NOTE: I was writing this whiles some more comments appeared above. I'll leave this general answer unchanged, as I think much of it is relevant, and post a follow up as well.

   To supplement (and to some extent, duplicate) Ron's (@zander) useful comments:

The WZ5012L and (any) PC ATX are very badly matched ... It is possible, though by no means certain, that the WZ could provide a variable voltage output from (near) zero to about 10V, when fed from the +12V ATX output.

That is obviously far from the advertised capability for the WZ of 0 to 50V, and presumably not what you were expecting.

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To fully utilise the WZ5012L capability, you need to replace the ATX supply with a mains supply that can output (just under) 55V at over 12 A.

But I am guessing your 'real' output needs are much less than 0 to 50 V at 12 A WZ specification.

If my guess is right, post your 'real' needs and hope for some helpful comments.

I would include a general description of what you expect to use it for, as that might also result in some useful suggestions.

I realise predicting the specification needs for a general purpose piece of equipment can be difficult, but equally, finding a single solution for every future possibility can result in something much more expensive and larger than you need.

So think carefully ... many projects fail or need a lot of changes because the initial specification was unclear.

Best wishes, Dave

@man77 Don't know what a notebook is, but if you meant tablet, then like the phone, you only need 5VDC at about 2A or 10W. As far as laptops, they generally put out in the neighbourhood of 20V (at least older versions)

Household appliances will be mains AC which you are NOT ready to work with for a few years at least. IF however the logic boards can be removed and powered (probably by 5VDC 2A) then ok.

Looking for a short requires a VOM, not a PSU.

You only need the WZ when 3.3VDC, 5VDC, 12VDC is NOT the voltage needed. Very rare.

You need to start standing on your own 2 feet, read the specs of the two ATX supplies and see which you think is better given you have a high need for 12VDC.

BTW, 90% of the time, my projects are powered by a 9V cell or a 5V wall wart. All this big and fancy power is for the minority of projects. Spend your time wisely.

@davee EDIT: Nope, Dave was right, this is just a STEP DOWN so the max you will get out is more like 10VDC so it is pretty much useless for you. Send it back.

Sorry Dave, you missed a couple points. That WZ thingy I think is a buck/boost so it can produce more than 12VDC. I have one that goes to 20. The ATX is mains powered and supplies 23A at 12VDC.