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Topic starter
2022-01-05 3:31 pm
What kind of LED would be needed to light part of a room? I was browsing online stores last night and there were Bright, Super Bright and Ultra Bright LEDs with different units and values for measuring brightness. Thanks
2022-01-05 5:00 pm
Hi @yurkshirelad,
Something of 'How long is a piece of string?' question.
Lamps often quote 'lumens' as a quantity.
And a first Google result of an equivalence to the old 'filament' type lamps table looks like:
What is a Lumen?
- 40w incandescent = 380 – 460 Lumens.
- 60w incandescent = 750 – 850 Lumens.
- 75w incandescent = 1100 – 1300 Lumens.
- 100w incandescent = 1700 – 1800 Lumens.
So say you might have chosen a 75W bulb in the past to do the job, then you are looking for something in the 1200 lumen region for LED.
Note this is an extremely 'rough' guide.
Filament lamps of the same wattage tended to be the same 'brightness' and appearance, (notable exceptions were the 'extra long life' and other specials which traded light output for lifetime, and 'halogen' which used chemistry to allow it to be run at a higher temperature).
LEDs can vary with colour from 'creamy yellow' to 'harsh blue', which changes the apparent brightness. Also, the direction of light plays an important role, which will be different.
Plus some LEDs seem to have been measured with some very dodgy equipment... so be be prepared for a couple of experiments...
Best wishes, Dave
Topic starter
2022-01-05 6:00 pm
Thanks Dave,
Only one LED I've found so far comes anywhere near to those levels of lumens, assuming I'm using the correct apex angle in the MCD to lumens calculators online. They mostly seem to max out at 60 lumens. This one is higher - https://bc-robotics.com/shop/cool-white-10w-led/.
2022-01-05 6:14 pm
If you need to light a room with a very bright LED, why aren't you looking at something like ...
"https://www.amazon.ca/LOHAS-White-Power-Energy-Saving/dp/B00CZ75TWA/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3B746MJIZMJA2&keywords=100+watt+led+module&qid=1641406312&sprefix=100watt+led+module%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-6"
Of course, you may also need to order some welding glasses 🙂
Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're talking about.
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Topic starter
2022-01-05 6:16 pm
Welding glasses? 🤣
I haven't searched Amazon yet, so I haven't seen that one - thanks. I'm not sure that Ottawa's power grid could handle the wattage requirements of that one! 😀
It doesn't need to light the whole room, just part of it as a night light. Like something you can buy in the stores. So definitely something less than 30V. Light bulb moment - I should probably check night lights and see what brightness they advertise. Why didn't I think of that earlier! Facepalm.
This post was modified 2 years ago by YurkshireLad
2022-01-05 7:11 pm
Hi @yurkshirelad,
From memory, the 'night lights' were typically 10-15W in 'incandescent' form, so extrapolating my table would put the LED equivalent closer to 100 lumens, which should remove the need for welder's goggles.
Depending upon the usage and budget, you might alternatively consider a dimmable or even 'smart' bulb, so it can be an adjustable 'night light' that can also provide more light when required.
It all depends how long your piece of string is ...
Dave
Topic starter
2022-01-05 7:23 pm
My piece of string isn't too long - it's just a tiny project I'm working on. Or trying to!
2022-01-05 7:40 pm
Hi @yurkshirelad,
And it depends on whether you wants a 'broad spread', like a traditional light bulb, or more of 'mini spot light' to illuminate a particular area.
The later might be served by a GU10 type or similar that are often used for lighting in and under cabinets, etc.
Best wishes, Dave
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Topic starter
2022-01-05 8:15 pm
Good point, it would be fun to try both types.
2022-02-02 11:59 am
I have been up and down this road for years. I use LEDs exclusively to light the darkness here. I have used the examples shown further up the thread. Inorder for them to be bright, they are over driven. This means they need heat sinks. No heat sink and they burn out very quickly. I mount all LEDs on old linear voltage regulator heat sinks torn from TVs, or a long aluminum frame stock.
To under drive, add a resister in series.
I have used the 48 smd 12v plates for nearly 20 years now. I have always been able to buy them for less then a dollar a piece, and they last about 3 years with continuous use.
Super White 5050 48-SMD LED Panel Dome Lamp Auto Car Interior Reading Plate Light Roof Ceiling Interior Wired Lamp + T10 BA9S Festoon Adapter-10PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW2Q5AV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_X1DWJ6AAP40JT75F9R1X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Obviously, I was buying them in bulk from Ally. Not sure what I will do next time.
Right now the latest and greatest is the single 1 watt super white, that I add a 330 ohm resistor to and use with 1S 18640 cells. I am still dialing in the resistance tho. 330 ohm seems to make the light too dull. One cell does last all night tho.
I am sure you grid power guys can find a "Edison" base screw in LED bulb, because I have one somewhere here. It has 3 LEDs and was quite small. I don't run batteries at night to make AC to make a DC light work. More efficient to just go direct from battery to LED
DF
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