How many of you have 3d printers?  

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codecage
(@codecage)
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2019-08-10 10:54 pm  

@etinkerer

Just finished, within the last few minutes, assembling the mechanical portion of an Anet A8 Plus; still have to add all the wiring (maybe tomorrow!).  It comes as an almost assembled unit or a DIY kit.  It was $223.00 with Amazon's $65.00 coupon as a DIY kit when I bought it.  I can guarantee you will know a lot more about what makes the mechanical portion of a 3D printer work, as well as exercise your four letter vocabulary, once you get this thing together!  Man is there a gigantic disconnect between how the manual says you should assemble the kit (you'll be re-translating a lot of Chinglish trying to figure out what they really meant).  And they do have a silent video (with Chinglish subtitles) on their web site.  I don't know how many folks were involved in the making of this printer, but I can almost without a doubt tell you that all that were involved in anyway with the making of the machine, doing the installation documentation, making the video, packing all the parts...  They never once spoke to one another or traded any kind of communications.  There are even a couple of engineering design flaws that had to be overcome, but with perseverance and a few choice words it can be done.

My unit had a manufacturing defect in one part, so Amazon shipped me another as a replacement, but I just remove the needed part and put the bad part back in the 2nd printer's box.  I did also discover I was missing a couple of parts, but luckily the 2nd printer had the parts I was missing.  So Amazon is going to get back what's left.

I was trying to video a good portion of the assembly and trying to document the pit falls, but I just finally gave up.

What is really interesting is that at the moment it looks like it is going to be a very good starting point to get me started in the 3D printing world.  A soon a my blood pressure gets back to normal!

This post was modified 4 months ago by codecage

SteveG


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ETinkerer
(@etinkerer)
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2019-08-11 3:02 am  

@codecage

So after you get it assembled, run some test gcode through the printer, get it dialed in to where you are comfortable using it, what will be the first object you will be making that you will put to some use other than admiring on a shelf? 🤔 

Pat

The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that heralds new discoveries, is not “Eureka!” (I found it!) but “That's funny …”
Author: Isaac Asimov


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triform
(@triform)
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2019-08-11 3:33 am  

@robo-pi

Have a look at https://www.thingiverse.com/. I know the Inmoov hand is nice looking and I have seen it about the net and in person.  There are quite a few others out there.

Scott


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Robo Pi
(@robo-pi)
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2019-08-11 3:55 am  
Posted by: @triform

Have a look at https://www.thingiverse.com/. I know the Inmoov hand is nice looking and I have seen it about the net and in person.  There are quite a few others out there.

Yes, that is a nice one.  I've been searching around for robotic hands and I have found a few that I kind of like, but it's hard to find ones I really like.  This InMoov hand looks pretty promising.  Thanks for the tip.

DroneBot Workshop Robotics Engineer
James


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triform
(@triform)
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2019-08-11 4:25 am  

@robo-pi

No problem. I have seen a fully printed Inmoov at a conference, it was nice.  I have never liked human-like androids. I like my bots boxy with wheels 😉  I do like the hands though, they could make a nice addition to a bot. 


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codecage
(@codecage)
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2019-08-11 1:24 pm  

@etinkerer

I now have a hankering to start on the NASA Mars Rover knockoff that one of that team out in CA, that put together the $2700 replica from the JPL website, designed to come it at more like $500.  Have already downloaded the STL files for all the parts needed.  But before I start on that I have to finish Willy Nilly and may even print some yet to be discovered things he may need.

I wouldn't give the Anet quality control folks very high marks (probably pretty low marks).  In addition to the issues I've already run into, this morning as I'm beginning the electrical wiring I have discovered a bad kink in the cable from one of the fans.   The insulation on one wire was split exposing bare wire and I'm sure that both wires would break at that point if flexed too many time.  Sure glad that I have that second printer sitting here.  And I plan on keeping it right up to the last minute in my return window. 

SteveG


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ETinkerer
(@etinkerer)
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2019-08-11 5:36 pm  

@codecage

Well that's disappointing to hear. I hope it all works out for you and in the end it turns out to be a good printer for you. Once you start on the Rover I would like to see you start a thread as you go through the build. 

Pat

The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that heralds new discoveries, is not “Eureka!” (I found it!) but “That's funny …”
Author: Isaac Asimov


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codecage
(@codecage)
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2019-08-11 5:46 pm  

@etinkerer

Even considering the issues I've run into, I still believe it will a good first 3D printer.  And I have definitely learned a tremendous amount about how these things function.  I'm really looking forward to putting it through its paces and learning much much more.

But when I do start on the Rover project I be sure to start a thread all aout it!

SteveG


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Spyder
(@spyder)
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2019-08-12 5:36 pm  

For some reason the folder I uploaded all the STL files ended up being empty, so I uploaded them again (I think I forgot to hit the "commit" button)

Here's my folder full of 3d printing test print files. You should start with the temp blocks. Slice each one at the temperature named by the block to see what is the best temperature for each filament you use. Remember to mostly ignore the temps printed on the filament box due to each printer being different, and each thermister reading different, and each controller board calculating different

Some kind of enclosure for the printer makes a WORLD of difference when printing. A breeze or air conditioner or dehumidifier, as well as the speed of the parts cooling fan can also make a huge difference

The temp of the bed heater is also a factor, and all these things have to be considered before starting on a multi-day print

https://github.com/Spyder19/3D-STL


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triform
(@triform)
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2019-08-12 6:53 pm  

@codecage

Sounds like you will be melting plastic really soon, congrats!

Now, my big advice is, learn to read your machine, and be able to level it in your sleep! 🙂

I use a 4 point leveling system. The print head is positioned about am half-inch caddy corned from the screws (see drawing) 

Screenshot 2019 08 12 11 27 36

I use a normal piece of paper cut to about business card size. Take the paper and place it under the nozzle and adjust the bed screw for that corner up or down until you can slide the paper between the bed and nozzle with some resistance, but the paper still moves freely and not wrinkle as you move it.  The paper will be touching the nozzle and the bed.  When you pull the paper out and push it back in, you should feel the nozzle "snap" to get the paper out or under it again, but the paper should still move freely. 

Do this from position 1 to pos 4 and repeat two times.   Hope this helps and makes sense.

Scott

 


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Duce robot
(@duce-robot)
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2019-08-13 2:21 am  

I want to power it but......their are a few things yet to do what would be the best filament to do a test slash first print with and what should I try to print  220 by 220 build plate I have to hone the end stops and set the thermistor for the hot end yet just triple checking all systems before powering up any tips would be appreciated thanks in advance😁

1565659641479 2101279392

 


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Duce robot
(@duce-robot)
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2019-08-13 2:23 am  
Posted by: @duce-robot

I want to power it but......their are a few things yet to do what would be the best filament to do a test slash first print with and what should I try to print  220 by 220 build plate I have to hone the end stops and set the thermistor for the hot end yet just triple checking all systems before powering up any tips would be appreciated thanks in advance😁

1565659641479 2101279392

 

Run it up the flag pole and see who salutes


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triform
(@triform)
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2019-08-13 2:46 am  

@duce-robot

I would start with a nice roll of white or natural PLA. 

Brands like Hatchbox, 3D Solutech, AIO Robotics but there are many other good makers.

I say white or natural because they melt better and are less fussy with the printer settings being off some.

The first two are makers @20$USD a kilo and the last @13$ for a half kilo.  I do like the AIO for a color that I need but usually, do not print it.

Now, to answer a question most ask; How long will a 1kilo last?  With one kilo of 1.75mm PLA, you could print @ 100 iphone cases.

I use to buy the super cheap stuff from whoever was selling the cheapest and learned the long and hard way to get better filament.  I'll say though, that the rolls today are a lot better than the rolls of old.

Scott

 


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Duce robot
(@duce-robot)
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2019-08-13 2:56 am  

@triform

I will try the white  I have a roll also of shiny silky silver pla and I do have the white hatchbox scratch builds are a little sketchy but that is the fun now back to the panda


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codecage
(@codecage)
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2019-08-13 9:24 pm  

@triform

I guess I need to find a 3D printing forum and not clutter this forum with a lot of 3D printer issues.  Unless we have enough folks jumping on board that us noobies might learn something from our collective mistakes and issues.

But anyway, I just got through powering my A8 Plus up for the first time.  Did the "Auto Home," followed by your suggested leveling process.  After doing that the X showed -25, while Y and Z showed zero on the display.  And the bed was not under the nozzle on either the X or Y axis.  Then went ahead and tried to load filament thinking it might move over the bed when it began to extrude filament.  But the load process didn't work right either.  All I heard (and felt) was a ratcheting sound as the filament started feeding in and it never did extrude anything.

Any ideas about this or where I should turn for further assistance?  I will start googling to see if I can find something that way.

SteveG


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