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Kit that every 3d printer owner needs.

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triform
(@triform)
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Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 324
Topic starter  

Since a few of the members are getting printers, I figured I would show the tools I keep to keep it going and clean up prints.

To help make prints stick I use CLEAR glue sticks. No color, just plain old clear.  I use as needed.  If I have a print that doesn't look like it's sticking I will use a little on the print area.  You will have "stickage" issues from time to time or even all the time. This is the best easy to clean way. I find this even for buildtak and surfaced glass beads. 

IMG 20190812 165959

Next, are a few tools to make printing easier and better.

IMG 20190812 164912
IMG 20190812 163814
  • Tweezers for nozzle cleaning at the start of the print as well as during a print if needed.
  • Various needles and bit to help with nozzle clogs. 
  • Box cutter razor blade to help get prints free. You carefully slide the blade under a corner or corners and then you can wedge a putty knife under that to pop the print up and not damage the print or you print surface. 
  • Brass wire brushes to clean the nozzle with.
  • A putty knife with a very beveled edge. Only use with the razorblade as it can and will damage your print surface.
  • Side cutters for your filament cutting needs.
  • A small set of files, to help clean up your prints.
  • Various soft fine-grit sanding pads and tools for cleaning and finishing prints.
  • Superglue for print salvaging and fixing.
  • Clear NO-FOAMING Gorilla glue for print edge sealing and finishing. This will make prints a lot stronger.

Tips:

  • Pre-heat your extruder and bed for at least 5mins at the printing temp. Longer if in a colder room.
  • Make sure your bed is level before starting.
  • Clean the excess plastic dribble before it starts the first layer.
  • Use PLA to start with and then later PETG as you get more experience.
  • SAY NO to ABS. It's a pain, it warps, it stinks, it makes you say a lot of bad things.  There are better options like PETG and newer PLA's now.
  • Let your prints cool down to room temp before removing.

Scott

 


   
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Spyder
(@spyder)
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Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 846
 
hammertape

Also some painter's tape and a small hammer


   
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(@dronebot-workshop)
Workshop Guru Admin
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 1053
 

@triform

@spyder

Excellent info, thanks for posting this!

BTW, you will notice that I just moved this thread to the new "3D Printing" topic, which didn't exist when you first posted it.

?

Bill

"Never trust a computer you can’t throw out a window." — Steve Wozniak


   
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Spyder
(@spyder)
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Posts: 846
 

@dronebot-workshop

Yes, I did notice. Thank you !

I also wanted to point out that whatever cookie changes you made removed the 502 error, as well as allowed me to post pictures again

I realize the change is in flux, but, I wanted to point that out


   
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(@dronebot-workshop)
Workshop Guru Admin
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 1053
 

@spyder

Actually, I think it is fixed now - I changed a security plugin, the previous one was causing the errors. Glad to hear it is working for you!

Bill

"Never trust a computer you can’t throw out a window." — Steve Wozniak


   
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triform
(@triform)
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Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 324
Topic starter  

Additions:

An extra thermister for your printer. A little googling should tell you what type and number it uses. They are usually not too expensive. I got 5 of them last year for $5 USD with the PFE wire insulator (1m long on each)

Also having a heater cartridge on hand is good. Again google for the type or at least the voltage.  I have one printer that uses 12v heaters and the other, 24v.

I figured I would add an update to this list due to two issues I have had in the past month.  In early December, my heater died on one printer and then the thermister cracked yesterday. I had no real downtime waiting for parts.


   
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HAL9000
(@hal9000)
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Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 15
 

I'd like to add a finding I recently made:

It just so happened on a rainy sunday when my gluestick was suddenly empty and I really wanted to start another print. I tried – successfully – to mix up a small portion of ordinary wood glue (ponal in my case) with some water. Just to make it thin enough to be able to apply it with a small brush onto my glasbed.

In addition I used a cutter blade (the type where you can break off chunks to get a sharp tip again) to spread it out evenly over the area where my print would end up.
Let it dry for 5-10 minutes and start the print.

Works!

I don't even have to apply a new coating before each print but the surface holds up to probably 4-5 prints.

Much cheaper than gluesticks!

Maybe this technique could be improved by using a silicone lip kinda like a window wiper to evenly distribute the thin glue…


   
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(@chucketn)
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Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 25
 

For increasing bed adhesion, try cheap hair spray such as Aqua Net on a pane of glass cut to the size of your bed. It really works.


   
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Spyder
(@spyder)
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I finally picked up one of those flexible magnetic bed covering thingys. I'd read about them but never saw one in the right size for my printer. I found a company that carries multiple sizes in stock, and this kit was only $13.99 USD

It's a 2 part thing where there's double sticky backing on the part that you stick to the bed itself, and the other part has a print friendly facing that doesn't require hair spray or painter's tape or glue stick, and then, since it's flexible, you just bend it, and the print peels right off

I'm liking it a lot

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RQDZHQH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


   
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(@dkilzer)
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Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 6
 

@Spyder thank you for the link to the magnetic bed cover. I had been looking for one of those too and that's a great price. 


   
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(@truckmen)
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Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 12
 

This is what I've been using to great success


   
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