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[Solved] Mechanical connections, HOW?

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Ron
 Ron
(@zander)
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I can work my way through logical connections, but I am stymied by mechanical connections. I will try to explain.

I have 3 LM2596 modules that I will be using to crate a little power supply of 3.3, 5, 12V. I have soldered a double pin with one top pin clipped into each of the 4 holes in the module. I think I am supposed to then mount that in a PCB board. Where do I connect the wires to the supply and load? Should I just solder to the underside of the board where the connecting pin comes through? OR do I do a 'solder jumper' (I think I saw that somewhere) under the board and then solder the wires to a pin protruding through?

If anyone knows of a Youtube video or a PDF or blog etc, just point me there but I am a little stymied at the moment.

First computer 1959. Retired from my own computer company 2004.
Hardware - Expert in 1401, and 360, fairly knowledge in PC plus numerous MPU's and MCU's
Major Languages - Machine language, 360 Macro Assembler, Intel Assembler, PL/I and PL1, Pascal, Basic, C plus numerous job control and scripting languages.
Sure you can learn to be a programmer, it will take the same amount of time for me to learn to be a Doctor.


   
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Will
 Will
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@ronalex4203

I'm not sure what you mean by soldering and clipping pins. I usually just solder the input and output wires directly to the board and screw it down so it doesn't short on any other wiring.

 

IMG 1788

Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're talking about.


   
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Ron
 Ron
(@zander)
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@will Can't really screw down, it's a thin plastic case. I plan on using hot glue to hold a small PCB board to mount the modules. 

First computer 1959. Retired from my own computer company 2004.
Hardware - Expert in 1401, and 360, fairly knowledge in PC plus numerous MPU's and MCU's
Major Languages - Machine language, 360 Macro Assembler, Intel Assembler, PL/I and PL1, Pascal, Basic, C plus numerous job control and scripting languages.
Sure you can learn to be a programmer, it will take the same amount of time for me to learn to be a Doctor.


   
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Will
 Will
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@ronalex4203 

I've found that hot glue is non-conductive, so you could just lay down a thick layer and press the module down onto it. I'd vote against putting anything metallic directly against the back of the module.

Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're talking about.


   
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Ron
 Ron
(@zander)
Father of a miniature Wookie
Joined: 3 years ago
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Topic starter  

@will The problem with gluing the module is if it ever has to be removed you have a fight on your hands. I tested the strength of the hot glue since I have never used it and it is strong. My way I can just de-solder the module. Nothing metallic within 3mm of the back of the module.

First computer 1959. Retired from my own computer company 2004.
Hardware - Expert in 1401, and 360, fairly knowledge in PC plus numerous MPU's and MCU's
Major Languages - Machine language, 360 Macro Assembler, Intel Assembler, PL/I and PL1, Pascal, Basic, C plus numerous job control and scripting languages.
Sure you can learn to be a programmer, it will take the same amount of time for me to learn to be a Doctor.


   
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Ron
 Ron
(@zander)
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Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 6661
Topic starter  

@will Maybe a picture will clarify.

IMG 6529
IMG 6530

 

First computer 1959. Retired from my own computer company 2004.
Hardware - Expert in 1401, and 360, fairly knowledge in PC plus numerous MPU's and MCU's
Major Languages - Machine language, 360 Macro Assembler, Intel Assembler, PL/I and PL1, Pascal, Basic, C plus numerous job control and scripting languages.
Sure you can learn to be a programmer, it will take the same amount of time for me to learn to be a Doctor.


   
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jker
 jker
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If you can get away with it, when salvaging a component that has been hotglued... acetone works pretty well. You do have to be a bit careful when salvaging 18650s (or similar) for obvious reasons though.

"A resistor makes a lightbulb and a capacitor makes an explosion when connected wrong"
"There are two types of electrical engineers, those intentionally making antennas and those accidentally doing so."


   
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Will
 Will
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@ronalex4203 

Keep using whatever works best for you.

I find that if I put a drop or two of alcohol along the hot glue and tip the unit up so that it nestles against the plastic/glue interface that the alcohol seems to slide into the seam and lift off the glue. You can hasten the process by (gently) flexing the plastic base or living up the glued top. (As a further note, if you use alcohol to clean the plastic before hot gluing it, leave plenty of time for the alcohol to evaporate before applying the hot glue).

I usually 3D print a plate to mount everything on and provide plastic pillars which have holes in them the size of the screws I indent to lock them down. This allows me to tuck all the wring underneath to make it look tidy while still providing enough clearance to avoid fouling the wires or shorting anything out.

The picture below shows a mount I use for my latest family of plotters, which displays all of the electronic parts but hides the majority of the messy wiring. The hole in the middle allows all of the wires to pass out the back end of the panel to drive the servo, steppers and limit switches wiring.

I realize that you can't duplicate this, it's just for illustration.

IMG 1789

Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're talking about.


   
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Will
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Posted by: @ronalex4203

@will Maybe a picture will clarify. 

Doesn't that leave you with a dual problem ?

1) now you have to oversolder the pins with the power wires

2) now you have pins protruding from the bottom PCB so you don't have a large smooth surface for the glue to hold.

Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're talking about.


   
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jker
 jker
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Hi @ronalex4203,

Unfortunately I'm not quite sure what you're asking.

Mechanically you can usually hang small daughter-boards like this off your main pcb by the pins. A larger board will have mounting holes. A small bolt, a small nut, and a spacer usually work to secure them together.

Electrical outputs can be "solder-trailed" from the pin to your target, or just one space over where a wire takes over. GreatScott is quite good at this, and his channel has many examples. (Edit: better link)

Input wires are much more annoying if they don't return to the main board for some sort of plug. One simple approach I've taken is drilling a small hole in the pcb and zip-tying a loop of the wires to the pcb.

"A resistor makes a lightbulb and a capacitor makes an explosion when connected wrong"
"There are two types of electrical engineers, those intentionally making antennas and those accidentally doing so."


   
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Ron
 Ron
(@zander)
Father of a miniature Wookie
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@will I don't have room or budget for a 3D printer. The case comes with some mounts built in, but of course they are not in the right places. My plan is to drill out the holes in the corner of the PCB and then insert a plastic or brass standoff which I will hot glue to the case. I have tested that and it is very strong. This way I can remove everything but the standoffs if I need to for some unforeseen reason. Maybe I will pick your brains more when I need to design a custom case for my intrusion system. I may have access to a 3D printer but I have never been able to wrap my weird autistic brain around a CAD program. There was one many moons ago but while I was deciding to buy it they pulled it from the market. It was a drafting package, I almost never need 3D and most CAD programs are waaaaaay too complicated. I have been recently introduced to a couple of parametric style CAD  apps and they seem like I might be able to use them. I don't need to tell the 3D printer to make a hole as long as I own a drill and bits. All I need is a box.

First computer 1959. Retired from my own computer company 2004.
Hardware - Expert in 1401, and 360, fairly knowledge in PC plus numerous MPU's and MCU's
Major Languages - Machine language, 360 Macro Assembler, Intel Assembler, PL/I and PL1, Pascal, Basic, C plus numerous job control and scripting languages.
Sure you can learn to be a programmer, it will take the same amount of time for me to learn to be a Doctor.


   
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Ron
 Ron
(@zander)
Father of a miniature Wookie
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 6661
Topic starter  

 

IMG 6534

@will I don't need large smooth surface for the glue, just a puddle to place the standoff in. Here is a picture of my experiment, it is plenty strong.

First computer 1959. Retired from my own computer company 2004.
Hardware - Expert in 1401, and 360, fairly knowledge in PC plus numerous MPU's and MCU's
Major Languages - Machine language, 360 Macro Assembler, Intel Assembler, PL/I and PL1, Pascal, Basic, C plus numerous job control and scripting languages.
Sure you can learn to be a programmer, it will take the same amount of time for me to learn to be a Doctor.


   
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Ron
 Ron
(@zander)
Father of a miniature Wookie
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 6661
Topic starter  

@jker There is no main PCB, this is the only (3 of them identical) one. I think that is where I saw the idea of solder trailing, I only need to wrap some 20AWG around the exposed pin and solder it. I haven't decided if I will wire from the top or bottom and if I will drill out one of the holes to take the #20.

First computer 1959. Retired from my own computer company 2004.
Hardware - Expert in 1401, and 360, fairly knowledge in PC plus numerous MPU's and MCU's
Major Languages - Machine language, 360 Macro Assembler, Intel Assembler, PL/I and PL1, Pascal, Basic, C plus numerous job control and scripting languages.
Sure you can learn to be a programmer, it will take the same amount of time for me to learn to be a Doctor.


   
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Ron
 Ron
(@zander)
Father of a miniature Wookie
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 6661
Topic starter  

@will I decided to get rid of the PCB's (I had a space problem as well) and will wire directly, use plastic standoffs in the 2 provided holes set in hot glue. Thanks for making me take a second look.

First computer 1959. Retired from my own computer company 2004.
Hardware - Expert in 1401, and 360, fairly knowledge in PC plus numerous MPU's and MCU's
Major Languages - Machine language, 360 Macro Assembler, Intel Assembler, PL/I and PL1, Pascal, Basic, C plus numerous job control and scripting languages.
Sure you can learn to be a programmer, it will take the same amount of time for me to learn to be a Doctor.


   
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Will
 Will
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Posts: 2504
 

@ronalex4203 

Find something that works and stick with it 🙂

Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're talking about.


   
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