Garage lighting and parking sensor project

@tasan 

I have no experience with led strips but I see others have and should give better advice.  As for power supplies.

https://tigoe.github.io/LightProjects/led-strips.html

"You should leave some overhead in choosing a power supply; 20% is a good number. For example, if your strips need 4 amps, then pick at least a 5 amp supply."

@robotbuilder Thanks for the tip - it seems I already have done that. Lucky!

Posted by: @tasan

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@robotbuilder Let me rephrase:

Hey hey, wait a minute! Are you saying I can solder stuff in place to some kind of BOARD????

Hehe, I was under the impression that I had to solder stuff like you would when soldering two wires together. I have no idea how this basic concept escaped my brain. Of course you can solder stuff to a board. That's how you make a circuit board in the first place...

That was a huge brain fart that lasted for a few weeks. But yes, all my problems are now solved in terms of how to wire this.

One question: Can solder handle the current I am talking about here? 1 - 2 amps?

Hi @tasan, While I'm a little late to the party..I do have some information on solderable breadboards that may help you with your projects.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WZXHMDG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

"https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WZXHMDG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" on Amazon. I'm using them a present project.. more on tat later when I publish the project. BTW, yes, the solder connections can handle the current as @robotbuilder described.

regards,

LouisR

@tasan Amazon links don't work properly on this forum. Post them as text.

@tasan Here are a few more solderable breadboards from amazon. Using amazon url shortener

https://amz.run/6CrZ https://amz.run/6Cra https://amz.run/6Crb

Thanks guys!

Posted by: @zander

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Using amazon url shortener

Hey Ron... how do you do that?

@tasan 

Soldering - I think it's been mostly covered.  If you need/want to get off cheap, you can get just the cheap pencil type, 15W soldering irons, but they actually take more learning curve.  I switched to a solder station (I think 65W) that is variable, heats up quick and improved my skills instantly.  I have not tried the old pencil to see if it was my skills that improved or the equipment.  I wouldn't touch it, unless it was the last thing on Earth.

🤣

Concern about heating - resistance (that can cause heating) is a function of gauge AND length.  The fact that the soldering joint is essentially zero length, you can't really accumulate a lot of resistance and thus de-solder itself.  I've recently gotten back into RC model airplanes and some of the new electric motors for racing drones these days are running 22, 36, and more volts with 150 amps through lugs that are only soldered on (not crimped).  I think you're good! 

@inq Chrome extension 

full https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/amazon-url-shortner/jhcjblhckchiedihkfkgjaghggbcmbdn

shortened using the amazon shortener https://ggle.io/5QOV normally it uses bitly on non amazon sites, but in this case it looks like it used google.

@tasan You need to read ALL the reviews. These are overkill for your purpose and conventional LED strips are much safer. Good luck.

Here is a review that the manufacturer responded to and they agree with the complainant. At loeast they are honest.

Upon my below review the seller sent me the below response basically telling me not to turn the lights on for a long time as they will run hot and consume a lot of energy.

Exact message read “ Please do not light the full white light for a long time.

Full white lighting effect will consume a lot of energy .
Brightness. The brighter the brightness, the more the consumption.

This is the reason why LED strip is hot.

Best regards,

BTf-LIGHTING”
————
This FCOB LED light strip is not safe at all. It runs very hot to the point I would worry about being a fire hazard. I could not hold them in my hand after 10 minutes.

They also claims to be energy efficient but compared to what? It is 24volts and uses a lot of power for a LED light.

And the LED's claim to be warm white but it is actually cool white LED's covered by a silicon like yellow sheath making it an awkward color and possibly why they run even hotter than they should.

@zander Thank you for making me aware of this. I bought this from another link that has been taken down now, so this review was not present.

I will let them stay on for a prolonged time and check this. I will also check how much power they draw if I can manage. From my short tests they don't get hot. These will also be on for 2 - 3 minutes 3 - 5 times per day, so they will not be on for a prolonged time. But if they get warm, I'll have to swap them for safer ones.

When we are on the topic of safety, what do you think about the power supply? Probably hard to answer, but if you have any reservations I would love to hear them 😊

@tasan Very hard to evaluate without having it here but power supplies are common devices so I imagine they are relatively safe. IIRC from your link (it still works for me) that supply is a 2A supply, not very high.

I think you mentioned having young children so the chances of the lights being left on is high. Perhaps add a countdown timer so they automatically turn off. I just did that with my soldering iron using an Alexa plug. I am always forgetting to turn it off. My next new iron will have auto shut off (uses a built-in motion detector)

@tasan Just an FYI, the following LED's are what I have installed in a kitchen pantry, inside the island, and under the island for motion controlled night lights. They are plenty bright.

https://amz.run/6Csq

Posted by: @tasan

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When we are on the topic of safety, what do you think about the power supply?

Most all of the issues with 3D Printers causing fires are associated with the power supply, not the hot-extruder and heat bed.  Most are attributed to Chinese clones.  The power supplies look like the one you have... ~ 2"x4"x8" or there abouts.  You might want to do an Internet survey on 3D Printer power supplies.  There are name brands... but also, you might look into Desktop computer power supplies although I think they are primarily 12V.  They run non-stop for years at high outputs in businesses and homes.  They are also relatively cheap since they make a butt-load of them.

@inq Thanks for the tip!