[Solved] Arduino Issue on Zalophus

Posted by: @inq

Posted by: @davee

But, for the benefit of anyone else following this thread, I should like to explain my thinking.

I can deal with long sermons... please continue.  Between you and @inst-tech, my hardware knowledge is improving and I like that you explain more than just what, but also why.  Although I may no know the EE theoretical aspects behind these devices, you have both explained enough for the concept to sink in.  I don't retain monkey see, monkey do very well and if I understand the basis, it stays longer and can even sometimes be extrapolated to something new.

THANKS.

VBR,

Inq

Indeed, I'm quite sure @davee appreciates your comment as do I..yes.. I'm pretty much the same way.. I have to be able to understand the basis of the subject matter in order to retain it..It was part of my job to deep dive into various subject matters, such as Industrial Control valve technology, where I ended up being the SME ( Subject Matter Expert) in my plant, and a consultant to Corporate Reliability Engineering to that subject. I also taught Instrumentation classes on that subject at the plant level and throughout the company. Of course you understand, that it goes both ways..I'm still learning programming in C++, as the syntax is a little different than  Ms VBA..but the logic and structure are pretty much the same, and I appreciate your contribution, as well as others like @will, @frogandtoad, and of course @zander..not to mention Bill's wonderful tutorials and Paul McWhorter's videos..

regards,

LouisR

Hi @inq,

re: I can deal with long sermons... and so on

Thanks ... I much appreciate the positive feedback. I suspect @inst_tech does likewise.

Speaking personally, I have less memory than the proverbial goldfish for bald facts in isolation .. to have even half a chance of remembering something I must see it in context and try to make sense of how it all works. Consequently I hated (and largely failed) things like traditional history exams involving names, dates and so on. Hence the 'monkey' model does not work for me either!  I

And I am not even sure if it works for monkeys!

Best wishes, Dave.

Posted by: @davee

Hi @inq,

And I am not even sure if it works for monkeys!

Best wishes, Dave.

Posted by: @robotbuilder

Posted by: @davee

Hi @inq,

And I am not even sure if it works for monkeys!

Best wishes, Dave.

 

Hummmm... very interesting, and a credit to the Chimps species..! BTW, Chimps aren't monkeys, theiy're Apes..and highly intelligent.. unlike some of the people I use to work with...lol

regards,

LouisR

Caught this a while back

that sent chills up my spine.  They have the largest brain of any animal.  Not having opposing thumbs or able to create fire are probably the only things that kept them from being the dominant species on Earth.  

VBR,

Inq

P.S. Robotic projects would be problematic in salt water also.  😋 

@inq @davee @inst-tech

I followed your advice, but it still didn't work.

I have not noticed smoke coming out of the board, but I think my previous attempt destroyed

the voltage regulator, so the board can only be powered with usb (as I tested last time).

Does this seem realistic to you?

Because I may need to get another UNO.

Have a nice day

Hi @valerio,

Sadly any electronics CAN fail ... with or without magic smoke, so yes it is possible.

And my crystal ball for remote diagnosis of boards has clouded over ... 🙄 🙄 

If it were my card, I would:

1. Find a schematic circuit of the card (on the web). Depending on whether it is a 'genuine' UNO or a clone, the schematic may or not be completely accurate, but typically it gives a 'good idea'.
2. Use my multimeter to 'follow the volts' coming into the card ... you may wish/need to find/buy/improvise some smaller probe ends if your meter comes with the typical pencil sized probes.
   1. be sure to check the 0V (ground) path, as well as the +V path
3. If the regulator has failed, then replace it. Typically it comes with an AM1117 or equivalent ...I haven't replaced one personally, but it looks feasible with a small soldering iron.

The snip below is from https://www.arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/Arduino_Uno_Rev3-schematic.pdf

It shows the power input (from left to right), with power input socket, a rectifier to protect against reverse polarity and the xx1117, plus capacitors.

The regulator is usually easy to spot, as its SOT-223 package is 'unusual' .. e.g. see https://components101.com/regulators/ams1117-1a-ldo-regulator-pinout-datasheet

(But beware a few Arduino and related cards have two regulators! ... I doubt if this applies to the UNO ... it is more common on cards with 3.3V processors.)

If you do need to get a replacement regulator, make sure you get the correct voltage one (5V for UNO shown in above schematic).

It is possible the fault is not due to the regulator. Faulty sockets, badly soldered joints, etc. are all common problems, so if you have a meter, it is worth checking the 'power path' to look for the broken link.

-------------------------------

I hope this is useful, but I realise that forum members have a wide range of experience and knowledge - only you can decide how much of this is within your capability, interest, budget and toolkit.

I am suggesting this path on the basis that the card works fine when powered by the USB socket. If this is not the case, then my prognosis would be less optimistic, although personally I would probably still try to figure out what had failed, if only for the 'whodunit' appeal.

Best wishes and good luck. Dave

I just notice you're in Rome and maybe you're being faithful to Arduino brand.  but...

... you could take this opportunity to get an ESP32 that will open up both Bluetooth and WiFi options to you without having a separate Bluetooth module... AND SIGNFICANTLY faster processor 240 MHz and significantly cheaper.

@valerio I think you need to do some very basic troubleshooting. Here is what I recommend as the first two steps.

1. Disconnect EVERYTHING from the board, then plug your computer into the USB socket and run the sample blink sketch. If that works then at least the board has some life. Now disconnect the USB cable and connect a 9V battery to the DC jack. If the on-board led blinks then that power source is still good. Now place a VOM on ground and the 5V pin to see if there is still 5V, if not then most likely the 5V Voltage regulator needs replacing. Now place 9V on the Vin pin and again measure the 5V pin. If that is good then the board is fine and the problem lies somewhere other than the power circuit.

@zander

Posted by: @zander

Now place a VOM on ground and the 5V pin to see if there is still 5V, if not then most likely the 5V Voltage regulator needs replacing.

No one is going to replace a regulator, you'd just purchase another cheap as chips board, if you haven't already got one 😉

@frogandtoad That's what I would do for sure, first because I don't have surface mount soldering gear and the chance that something else is at least marginal is high plus as you say they are cheap.

@zander @davee @frogandtoad

Thank you for your advice.

Since there is no continuity between the input and GND of the voltage regulator (and thus no voltage)

I think it's the regulator that broke.

I probably have another suitable UNO board already, so I will try using that one.

Have a nice day

@valerio Ok, no idea what you should see between G and +, never have done that.

Please, if you don't follow my logical troubleshooting steps, do NOT thank me.

@zander @davee @inst-tech @inq @frogandtoad

I've just discovered that the issue was completely different.

I had soldered the barrel jack that connects the protoboard and the batteries wrong.

Since it had 3 pins and I went by what I remembered from seeing it in Eagle, I soldered to the incorrect pins.

Now it is fixed, and the Arduino I thought was broken works without issues.

I give them that... Arduino's are brick-shit houses!  (Are we allowed to say that here?)  An ESP would imitate a flame thrower!  

Score 1 for Arduino!

VBR,

Inq