I have been using my Uno for a few months now. Worked fine. Various sketches, etc. I built the INA219 volt/amp project from Dronebot, and added an OLEd screen. worked fine. BUT, now seems unresponsive. Uno seems to turn on, onboard leds light up, but not functioning. I even tried other sketches, even simple "blink' example. nothing. I get this error "
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x8f
I think I may have messed up the uno. One thing that occurred prior to this problem, I had the uno 5v output hooked up to the ina219 doing some testing of voltages, then I hooked up a 12v battery to the ina219 also (BUT FORGOT TO TAKE OFF THE UNO 5V FROM THE SAME LEAD ON THE INA219 V IMPUT.) Did having the 12v touching the jumper wire from the uno 5v "fry" the board? uno seems to work, can I "reprogram" or reinstall it?
SORRY if this is not the place to post...feel free to move or let me know. Thanks.
I even tried other sketches, even simple "blink' example. nothing. I get this error "
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x8f
Unfortunately, that's not a good sign, Blink is a pretty good test of Arduino functionality.
Did you touch the 12VDC to one of the Uno's I/O pins?
If you have another Uno can you hook it up to the same computer and load Blink? There is an off-chance that you have a communications error, but personally, I suspect your initial fear was valid and the Uno is dead.
If it's an older style, Uno, with the ATMEGA328P in a 28-pin IC socket, then you may be able to fix it by replacing the ATMEGA328P.
Otherwise, I'm not sure what to suggest.
😎
Bill
"Never trust a computer you can’t throw out a window." — Steve Wozniak
As a last resort, disconnect the Uno and quit whatever IDE or tool you are using to program it. Then reconnect the Uno and restart the IDE. Sometimes I have to do this with my microcontrollers and the Arduino IDE, as it seems to get confused with the COM port. I don't know if this will help, but just in case. Good luck.
Thank you, I disconnected and rebooted, no luck. It tries to load sketches, but after a while times out with error "avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xcc "
I know the batter 12v + was connected to the uno's 5v out pin for a brief time. I got working too fast and sloppy. My uno does allow the long, rectagular chip to come out of the holder, so I guess i will buy a new chip and replace and learn how to reprogram the chip ( I assume i need to put the bootloader on it..would be good experience for me to learn anyway).
Any advice on the chip to buy? Seems alot of them on the cheap china site such as this one: ( https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002058867224.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.18.19ad731fKifzy5&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.33416.213724.0&scm_id=1007.33416.213724.0&scm-url=1007.33416.213724.0&pvid=0fd0dfe4-4473-4881-b66f-81c6e6db7f51&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.33416.213724.0,pvid:0fd0dfe4-4473-4881-b66f-81c6e6db7f51,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2375_668%23888%233325%2311_23416%230%23213724%236_23416%234721%2321967%23875_23416%234722%2321970%231_668%232846%238109%231935_668%232717%237558%23183_668%231000022185%231000066059%230_668%233422%2315392%23282_4452%230%23211409%230_4452%233474%2316498%23804_4452%234862%2324463%23448_4452%233098%239599%23595_4452%235108%2323442%23180_4452%233564%2316062%2364 4"
Site says it is a - ATMEGA328P-PU ATMEGA328P-U ATMEGA328P DIP-28 IC
Thanks again...another lesson I need to learn from Bill's videos...work carefully and methodically.
My uno does allow the long, rectagular chip to come out of the holder, so I guess i will buy a new chip and replace and learn how to reprogram the chip ( I assume i need to put the bootloader on it..would be good experience for me to learn anyway).
If you buy the chip you pointed to then you don't need to upload the bootloader, as it already has it.
If you indeed touched the 12VDC to the Arduino 5V output then I'd say you probably barbequed the chip, as you applied the 12VDC directly to the chip's power pin.
However, keep in mind that your Uno has another chip as well, the USB to serial chip. That one is soldered in, and it's possible that you could have damaged it. In fact, it's remotely possible that the USB-serial chip is fried and the ATMEGA328P is OK.
If you happen to have an FTDI adapter, a 16MHz crystal and a couple of 22pf capacitors then you can actually "build" your own Uno on a solderless breadboard to test your chip. I have a video that shows you how to do that:
If you DON'T have an FTDI adapter and those other components that I mentioned then you might want to pick them up anyway. That way if it turns out that your Uno has a fried USB chip but a good MCU you could still make use of the ATMEGA328 (or two of them, as you now have ordered another) and build your own Unos.
Just a thought. If it makes you feel any better I've killed a couple of Unos myself, although I'm not really sure how I did it!
😎
Bill
"Never trust a computer you can’t throw out a window." — Steve Wozniak
I guess, @troles should have connected the 12VDC to the Vin pin of the Arduino. Then, he could have saved his board and microcontroller, right?
I guess, @troles should have connected the 12VDC to the Vin pin of the Arduino. Then, he could have saved his board and microcontroller, right?
NEGATIVE! The Vcc pin of the ATmega328 chip has a max of 5.5V according to the datasheet. 12V should only be applied to the barrel jack of the Arduino (or is that what you are referring to as the Vin?). There are regulators on the Arduino board that convert the higher voltage down to the levels required on the ATmega328 chip.
SteveG
I repeat what Code Cage has already said - that is 100% wrong! None of the Arduino pins are capable of handling anything over TT:L voltage levels.
By touching the 12-volts to his 5-volt output, which is connected to the VCC pin on the ATMEGA328, he killed his Arduino.
😎
Bill
"Never trust a computer you can’t throw out a window." — Steve Wozniak
I am talking about this pin on the Arduino, which is not in the ATMEGA328.
You can check for this pin on the Arduino site. I am 100% sure that this pin can handle more than 5VDC.
Actually, you are correct, that is the one pin that you can connect over 5-volts to. Essentially the VIN pin is the same connection as the barrel jack, and it sends the voltage through the same linear 5-volt regulator.
Just don't connect anything there at the same time as you have power applied to your barrel connector, that wouldn't actually hurt the Arduino but you could do some damage to your power supplies.
I apologize for the confusion, we assumed that you were speaking of the voltage input to the ATMEGA328P, which would definitely not handle anything over 5.5-volts.
😎
Bill
"Never trust a computer you can’t throw out a window." — Steve Wozniak
Bill, thanks for the info on the new atmega chip, I will order it and will try install (may take a few weeks to get shipped) and I WILL post here how that works for others to know.
To clarify, and with response to Sumanta's posts, I was not intentionally hooking up the 12 v to the uno. I had previously hooked up the uno's 5v out (the pin labeled 5v, and located 2 above the Vin pin on the UNO picture Sumanta posted) to the INA219 as per Bill's video on the ina219 voltage tester. (it was all assembled on a breadboard testing volts/amps of led's. Unfortunately, I was working too fast and on a messy breadboard--note, new folks like me...learn from Bill and work carefully and not with cluttered environment!). I then wanted to test voltage/amps on a 12 v battery powered mini-bluetooth audio amplifier. So I hooked it up "properly" to do so, via messy breadboard, with 12v+ to the INA219 (via breadboard) but FORGOT that the 5v pin described above was still also hooked into this circuit via breadboard. So, while I did not intend to hook the 12v+ to the above described 5v pin of uno, via the breadboard circuit, that is what happened.
Irregardless, the help and info you all have given is so appreciated and shows how wonderful the online community can be (often forgotten in the world of negative internet trolls and comments). Also, even if I have "lost" a $20 uno board, I have now gained a next level of working knowledge (and lesson on careful experimenting) that is worth much more than $20 going forward. Thanks all....As stated, I will update my attempts at repair when parts come in, incase that can help others also.
Okay. Now I've got it. This mistake can be committed by any beginner.
Thanks for sharing this with us. 😀
This has personally broadened my knowledge. I hope others will also learn from you. I have. 😀
Essentially the VIN pin is the same connection as the barrel jack, and it sends the voltage through the same linear 5-volt regulator.
@dronebot-workshop You are 100% right. I wanted to say the same thing. 😀
I apologize for the confusion, we assumed that you were speaking of the voltage input to the ATMEGA328P, which would definitely not handle anything over 5.5-volts.
No problem. 🙂
I knew that you misunderstood my post. That's why I posted the picture.
@troles If you buy that chip from AliExpress, you might as well pick up a couple of spare unos, too.
If you do, you can crash and burn for less than 4 Euros. 😀